|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Umbrella table
|
 |
|
Enjoy lunch on the patio with this extra-sturdy umbrella table
|
|
|
By Gary Walchuk, photo by Roger Yip, illustration by Len Churchill
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cool times under your umbrella are just around the corner with this easy-to-build table design that's strong enough to face rain and a strong breeze
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Relatively easy and inexpensive to build, this umbrella table is the perfect size for a gathering of friends at a summertime lunch. The design and materials are on the heavy side, making this a sturdy outdoor project with the weight and footprint to support a large umbrella, even in a moderately brisk wind. I tested it extensively to be sure it was up to the job.
This table's elevated top circle is a handy spot for extra snacks, and it also provides support for the umbrella. When you're shopping for an umbrella, look for a 6 1/2'- to 7'-dia. model, with a shaft that's 1 1/2" in diameter or less.
With the exception of the circular tabletop, the table is made entirely from some well-chosen 2x10 construction-grade spruce planks. You can find suitable wood if you select kiln-dried, straight, flat boards with nothing more than small, tight knots. Even if your wood is officially stamped “kiln-dried” it will need drying indoors. I bought my wood ahead of time and stored it in a heated space while it dried.
It's also worthwhile to sand both sides of each board with an 80-grit belt sander before you cut out the parts. Presanding makes the finished project paint-ready, speeding up the building process.
Build the Base
Begin by cutting the top and bottom braces to size, noting the 55° bevels at each end. Make sure that 1/2" at the bottom corner of the bottom braces remains square, since pointed ends would soon break. Mark the middle of each part, then lay out the two 1 1/2"-wide notches you need to cut into each brace. The plans include the details you need to follow here. Clamp the braces in pairs as you work, notching the top edge of one pair and the bottom edge of another. The idea is to have alternating notches in the upper and lower brace pairs so they interlock, half-lap style.
Cut the legs to size and, on the outside top end of each one, make a notch three inches wide and 6 3/4"-long. Cut the feet to size, making 55° bevels at the outside corners, 1/2" up from the bottom edges.
Assembling the base is easiest if you've taken the care to get the joints correct. Use clamps, outdoor glue and #8 x 2 1/2" corrosionproof screws. Drive these into predrilled, counterbored screw holes. Start by laying one base support piece on your work surface, inside face up. Next, apply two legs to this base support, flush with the outside edges of the notches. The legs should be 4 1/2" apart. Then, attach a foot at each end of the brace, making sure that the top and bottom edges of the feet extend 1/2" above and below the edges of the bottom braces. Flip the assembly over and apply the second brace, sandwiching the legs and feet.
Next, stand the assembly upright and slip one opposite brace into the group, fitting the notches together. Apply screws from below to secure the pieces notch to notch, then add the other two legs and feet to the inside surface of this brace. Finally, tap the remaining brace in place, interlocking the notches and sandwiching the parts as before.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
