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Project: Patio trolley
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This cedar patio trolley adds a touch of elegance to outdoor entertaining.
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By Rick Campbell
photos: Dave Starrett
illustration: Len Churchill
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Make and Install the Legs
The plans show how the front legs-the ones with wheels-are 1" shorter than the rear pair. Also, you'll find specs for the various grooves and notches you'll need to cut in the legs. All are 1/8" deep. An additional dado groove is needed on the front legs to support the wine rack. Notching the legs in this way adds strength to the trolley and helps with alignment during assembly. To complete the legs, cut a 3/4" radius curve on the bottom corners and round all exposed edges at the router table.
Apply glue to the dados and clamp the legs to the sides of the two frames you assembled earlier. For now, secure the legs with only one screw at each joint, installed into holes predrilled to accept tapered wooden plugs later. Using just a single screw initially lets you use a framing square to check and adjust all parts. When you're satisfied, drive a second screw into each joint to lock them solid. Cover the counterbored screw heads with tapered plugs glued in place, then sand them flush.
Slide the wine rack into place. To prevent splitting, use brads-not screws-to hold the rack while the glue dries.
 Image at left: Stemware is easily accessible and held securely by the rails underneath the tray. Just slide glasses out the end.
Custom Handle
Prepare a full-size template for the handle ends, then mark and cut the two parts you'll need. Drill a 5/8"-deep hole in each, using a 1" Forstner bit, to receive the handle rod. Ease the exposed edges of the handle ends with 100-grit sandpaper.
One-inch diameter cedar dowel rod is hard to find, so I made my own using a table-mounted router and a 1/2" round-over bit with a guide bearing. Start with a 1" square blank, approximately 18" long, and round all four corners, leaving about 3" square on each end to give you something to hold to prevent the blank from rolling as you rout. A little sanding and you've got a perfect dowel.
Cut a 10" section from the centre of the rod blank and glue the handle ends to it. Secure the handle assembly to the trolley with glue and 1 1/2" screws.
Laminated Wheels
If you cut wooden wheels out of a solid piece of 1"-thick material, over time they may split along the grain line. The solution is to create blanks by laminating two pieces of 1/2"-thick stock together with the grain running in opposing directions.
Use a circle cutter to prepare the wheels, or scribe a layout line with a compass and cut out the profile from the laminated stock freehand on a bandsaw or scroll saw. Sand the edges with a stationery sander, then round them over on both outside edges on the router table. I used a 3/8" router bit raised to cut approximately 1/8" deep into the face of the wheel to create the illusion of a wooden tire. At the centre of the wheel, drill a 3/8" deep hole with a 1" Forstner bit to recess the axle cap nut, then drill a 1/2" dia. hole all the way through for the axle shaft. Install the wheels when the project is sanded and finished.
 Finishing Up
Finish-sand the cart and ease all exposed edges by hand with sand paper. My favourite finish for outdoor projects is Circa 1850 Tung'n Teak Oil.
Use a hacksaw to cut off a piece of steel rod for the axle, then drill 1/2" holes in the bottom of the front legs and insert the rod. Attach the wheels to the shaft using washers for spacers and a cap nut on each end of the shaft to hold everything in place. Roll your handiwork out to the patio and invite over a few friends to enjoy a glass of wine served in style from your shop-built trolley.
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