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Oil Finish
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There's something to be said for simple wipe-on finishes, and that "something" comes from Steve Maxwell
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By Steve Maxwell; Illustration by Paul perreault
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Avoid trouble by using the right kind of oil. You must also apply it
with patience.
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There have been a few short-lived moments in my life when I've seriously considered giving up on woodworking. Each of these times involved urethane, shellac or some other film-forming finish gone bad. Wood finishing can sometimes blow up into a painful, frustrating nightmare. Even when everything goes more or less as planned, the work often demands a lot of time on things that have little to do with my attraction to woodworking. For these reasons, I find myself turning more and more to simple, penetrating wood finishes such as oils and wipe-on sealers. They go on fast, they're repairable and they don't demand fancy equipment or ultra-clean workshop conditions.
The variety of different oils and sealers you can use to create a wipe-on finish all involve the same application steps. Daub a generous amount of liquid onto the surface (I prefer a brush since it works better than a rag in corners), let it soak in for 10 or 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, then let the surface dry completely before repeating the process. Wipe-on finishes always build slowly, so expect to apply three to eight coats to get the kind of look and physical protection that most people want. You don't need a particularly dust-free location to apply wipe-on finishes successfully, nor do you need to worry about drips and runs. The repeated wiping action takes care of both of these problems.
Wipe-on finishes work best on hardwoods, although you can use them on thirstier softwoods as long as you're willing to apply more coats. Either way, you'll get the best results if you put the finish on with a fine abrasive whenever possible. This technique works best on large, flat areas and leaves behind a super-smooth, inviting surface. Apply and wipe off a few coats of oil in the usual way, then shift gears. When the oil is dry enough to apply a third coat, grab some wet/dry silicon carbide paper. Initially, 220-grit works well, followed by 400- or even 600-grit for subsequent steps. Flood the area with oil, then sand it thoroughly by hand in the same direction as the wood grain. Wipe off all surface liquid with a rag, let it dry, then repeat the process two or three more times. Wood simply doesn't get any smoother than this.
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