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Mission end table
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Build end tables that would make Stickley proud
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By Dave Boulton, photos by Roger Yip, illustration by Len Churchill
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Half-blind dovetails are true to Arts and Crafts roots. Maple and plywood were used to create the drawer sides and bottom.
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Mission Joints
The Mortises come next. Most are located within the grooves you have already cut in the legs. Refer to the plans for height and depth figures. (See “Making Mortises” on next page for details on this technique.) Regardless of the mortising method you choose, it's important to test your machine set-ups with scrap before moving on to your chosen lumber. Note that the kickplate stands alone in its mortise and doesn't sit in a panel groove.
Prepare to cut the matching tenons by reading “Tenon Technique” on page 45. For this project, you need to cut 1/4"-wide x 1"-long tenons on your rail ends, leaving a 1/4" shoulder on each side. Once again, use scrap pieces to test, checking tenon fit in the mortises you cut earlier.
Once you've cut the sides of the tenons on all the rails and the kickplate, raise the blade to a height of 3/8" and cut the bottom shoulders on all tenons. You can cut the top shoulders of the lower rails and kickplate as well, but leave the top edges of the top rails for now.
The top rails have a haunched tenon to accommodate the slot in the legs. Mark your tenons 3/8" in from the shoulder and 3/8" down from the top. Remove the waste with a fine-tooth handsaw.
Finally, add a groove in the side top rails to accept the metal clips that will hold the tabletop in place.
Sanding and Assembly
Once you're satisfied that your mortise-and-tenon joints fit, sand all parts up through the grits from 120 to 220. Sanding your project parts before assembly is much easier than if you wait until after they have been joined, screwed and glued; with an assembled project, you have corners and cross-grain to contend with. File and sand a small bevel on the bottom edges of the legs to prevent splintering if the table is dragged across the floor.
Start assembling the sides. The tenon-and-mortise surfaces should all be coated with glue, but panels must be allowed to float in their grooves glue-free. Check for square corners as you clamp up the assembly. Once the sides are dry, bring them together with the back components and front kickplate.
Build a Web
There are three web frames to build-one to support the lower drawer, one to support the upper drawer, and the third to act as a stop, preventing the upper drawer from tipping down as you pull it out. Use paint-grade hardwood, such as poplar, for these hidden parts. The frames are separated by uprights that are the same height as the drawers. You'll need to drill and counterbore the uprights to accept #8 x 2" screws to attach the assembly to the legs.
Before bringing the web frame parts together, set up and cut a groove in all upper frame pieces to accept metal tabletop clips. Once you're done, bring all the parts together with #10 biscuits.
As you assemble each frame, take the time to ensure it's square-
successful drawer fit depends on it. Keep all web-frame joints flush, so the drawers don't snag. After each frame is assembled, use a portable belt sander to smooth over any raised edges or protruding biscuits.
Next, join the completed web frames with the uprights. Attach the top frame to the uprights using #8 x 2" wood screws for strength. Put one in each upright in place of biscuits.
Set the drawer guides on the runners between the uprights. They only need to be 1/2" x 1/2", but you can make them bigger if you wish. Be sure that there's a smooth transition between the guides and uprights. If not, it will be hard to coax the drawers to fit.
Attach your outer frames to the front face of the web framing. They need to be sanded through all the same grits as the rest of the project for even staining and colour. Again, it's easiest to do this step before you glue them in place. Sand only exposed surfaces, not those that will be glued.
Next, drop the web frames in place. The top frame should be flush with the top of the cabinet, and the lower piece should fit behind the kickplate. Drill pilot holes and install eight #8 x 2" screws to join the uprights to the legs.
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