|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Medicine cabinet makeover
|
 |
|
From metal box to Mission style, this makeover transforms the bathroom
|
|
|
By Gord Graff, photos by Christopher Campbell, illustration by Len Churchill
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The simple melamine interior is inexpensive to build and is long-wearing and easy to clean
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Build the Face Frame
The three-inch wide face frame sits flush with the top edge of the cabinet bottom, so you can slide things out easily. The face frame sides and top are set in on the cabinet edges, creating a 1/4"-wide internal ledge that serves two purposes. First, it acts as a stop for the shelves, preventing them from accidentally being pulled out of the cabinet. Second, the inset allows for any variation from square in the cabinet or the face frame; in other words, the inset covers any building blunders you may have made so far. Join the face frame using glue and whatever method you like-dowels, pocket screws (my choice), biscuits or mortise-and-tenon joinery.
Now prepare the corbels, dentil moulding, three-inch-wide top and the header that sits above the dentil moulding. Take care with this last element, since it's so important to the overall look of the piece. The plans show how those end pieces of the dentil moulding that fit against the corbels are raised. Also, the three-inch-wide top needs to overhang the edges of the face frame by 1/2".
The cabinet door comes next, and although it might seem like the most difficult part of the project, it's actually quite simple. I built mine using a tenon- and-groove joint, a light-duty variation of the good old mortise-and-tenon that's more than adequate for this door. Start by cutting a 1/4"-wide x 1/2"-deep groove along the centre of the stile and rail edges, and matching tenons on the ends of the rails. You can use a dado blade in a tablesaw or a table-mounted router for the grooves. Multiple passes on a tablesaw is a good way to make tenons.
The tenon-and-groove joints should be snug, although you shouldn't need to hammer them together. Glue the door, clamp it square, then set aside to dry.
Next, convert the groove along the door edge into a back-facing rabbet to accommodate the mirror. I did this with a table-mounted router and a straight cutting bit. Set the router fence so the back edge of the groove is aligned with the bit, keeping the height of the bit the same depth as the previously cut stile and rail grooves. By milling away the back edge of the door groove like this, you'll get the rabbet you need. Square up the rounded corners left by the router and the door is done.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
