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Medicine cabinet makeover
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From metal box to Mission style, this makeover transforms the bathroom
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By Gord Graff, photos by Christopher Campbell, illustration by Len Churchill
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A perfect reflection of Mission design elements, this medicine cabinet is a major improvement on a store-bought cabinet
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We look into them all the time, fumble around inside as we struggle to start our day, but do we give much thought to the lowly medicine cabinet? Probably not. You likely have one of these metal or plastic medicine cabinets in your bathroom, with all the usual weaknesses. The metal ones rust, the plastic ones crack, and neither have enough space. Isn't it time you made something better?
This upgraded cabinet is nothing more than a melamine-coated particleboard box with a solid wood face frame and mirrored door. Melamine is the perfect material for the bathroom because it is inexpensive and easy to clean. You can get it in sheets, but I used precut shelf stock.
This project is custom work. Your medicine cabinet won't be the same size as mine. That's why I've given you a building method rather than exact sizes that probably wouldn't be of much use. It's crucial to measure the cabinet opening before you start to build. All of this starts by tearing out the old medicine cabinet. The thin blade of a cat's-paw prybar works well for levering out the cabinet.
With the old thing removed, peek into the hole looking for obstructions: wood, wires or pipes within the wall that may restrict the overall size of the new installation. If the way is clear, make the new cabinet as large as you like. Typically, the only limiting factor in this equation is the width of the space between studs. This is usually 14 1/2", although not always, especially in older homes. Resist the temptation to cut studs to make a wider opening. While it's possible to reinforce wall frames to allow stud removal, it's better to leave structural wall members alone.
Next, carefully measure the width of the stud space you've created, with numbers noted from three places. These measurements ultimately determine the width of the melamine box, so be careful to get them right. In most cases I build inset cabinet boxes 1/4" to 1/2" smaller than the narrowest of the three measurements I find. This makes it possible to square the cabinet and position it just right during final installation.
Once you've determined the overall width and height of your melamine box, you're almost ready to make sawdust. But there's still the issue of cabinet depth to consider. The name of the game here is to maximize usable cabinet depth, given the wall cavity you have to work with. Walls framed with 2x4s offer a 3 1/2"-deep internal cavity, plus 1/2" for drywall. That works out to a 3 3/4" overall cabinet depth, allowing for a 1/8" cabinet back panel and some space. A 2x6 wall has room for a 5 3/4"-deep cabinet. If you're working on an exterior wall, see “Insulation Insights”.
Prepare the sides, top and bottom of your cabinet, including a series of holes drilled into the cabinet sides to accommodate adjustable shelf supports. I used 1/4"-dia. shelf supports, the kind you'll find at most hardware stores. A 1/4" brad-point drill bit and a drillpress make clean, square and accurate holes. Another option: a shop-built plywood drilling jig used after the box is assembled.
Join the sides, top and bottom of the cabinet with biscuits, dowels, pocket holes or particleboard screws. When all four sides are together, add a 1/8"-thick back. It strengthens the cabinet, but be sure all corners are square before nailing it on. Once the back is in place, nothing moves. The cabinet box is finished. Test-fit it into the opening before moving ahead.
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