|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lazy Susan
|
 |
|
Deceptively simple in design, this functional project offers a lesson in bent laminations
|
|
|
By Rick Campbell, photos by Tracy Cox, illustration by Len Churchill
|
|
|
|
|
Cutting the Plies
Virtually any species of wood can be coaxed around a lamination form if the strips are cut thin enough. Straight-grained ash or oak are my favourites. Select boards that are free of knots, radical grain patterns or other defects that will weaken the plies.
You'll need five strips in all, each measuring 1/8" x 1" x 72". But since bending is always an unpredictable process, cut a few extras in case of problems. You can prepare strips using a well-tuned bandsaw equipped with a fence, or rip them on the tablesaw as I did.
Cutting thin material with a tablesaw can be dangerous without proper safety precautions. First of all, use a zero-clearance insert around the blade to stop the thin plies from slipping down next to the spinning blade after they're cut. Also, use push sticks to keep fingers safely away from the blade. This is a good safety practice even when you're not making thin material. Finally, use feather boards to keep the stock firmly against the fence and flat on the table, eliminating a potential distraction that could divert your attention from the task at hand. If you've got access to a thickness planer, you'll find it worthwhile cutting your plies slightly thicker than necessary, then planing down to finished size. The smooth surface and absolutely consistent thickness will lead to tighter ply-to-ply joints when it comes time for gluing.
Steam Bending
Steam relaxes the cell structure of wood, allowing it to bend with less resistance. This makes strips easier to work with and much less likely to break. Steam bending thick material requires special equipment and a lot of time, but for thinner stock, the job can be completed in a few minutes using a standard household iron, a damp cloth and a simple shop-made steaming form.
Begin by cutting the steaming form from a single piece of 3/4" MDF using your bandsaw or jigsaw. The jig is simply a half-round form with a notched protrusion to hold the end of the strips. Since the steaming form is only used for initial bending, and not final forming, edges don't need to be cut precisely with a router.
When it's cut, clamp the steaming form upright in a bench vise and select your first strip for bending. Begin with a damp cloth draped over the form. Place one end of your strip in the notch and bend the strip tightly over the form, then fold the cloth over top. Now run a hot iron back and forth along the cloth, pressing firmly against the strip as you go. After two or three passes remove the cloth and run the iron directly on the strip to evaporate any moisture. Repeat the procedure working your way along the entire length of the strip. This process is more effective if you steam each strip just prior to use.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
