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Heritage Ukrainian bench
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Build a piece of Western-Canadian history from a hardy group of immigrants for your front hall
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By Dave Bond, photos by Roger Yip, illlustration by Len Churchill
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The top of the front legs features a simple curved detail, a nice spot to grasp when you're emerging from a rest on the bench
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As you rout the reeding, you'll need to change the bullnose cutter height to create the adjacent bullnose profiles. Start by adjusting the bit so the top edge of its curved profile is one inch above the table. Run the rail pieces through on both long edges, then shut down and unplug your router. Next, lower the cutter so the bottom edge of the profile you just milled is aligned perfectly with the top edge of the cutter in its new, lower position. Precise height adjustment here is critical too, and that's where your scrap piece of wood comes in. When you think you have the bullnose bit height spot-on, try it on your scrap just to be sure. When it looks right, run your rail pieces through again, on both long edges as before.
The side and back scroll pieces are decorative, so make them from 3/8"-thick wood. You can draw the shaped profiles on graph paper following the grid diagram on next page, (you can download a full-size template). Print multiple copies, glue one to each piece of wood using rubber cement, then saw along the outline before you remove the paper. You may need to do some sanding to remove the glue and paper residue afterward.
Next come the seat slats. Mill them to their final size: 7/8" x 3 7/8" x 13 7/8", then prepare 3/8" x 7/16" rabbets on both long edges. You'll find a table-mounted router is an excellent tool for these rabbets, although you could use a tablesaw too. The seat slats rest on seat support strips applied to the inside surfaces of the front and back rails. Prepare these supports now, making them 7/8" x 7/8" x 39 3/4".
Legs and Mortises
Aside from being tapered, the legs also include a number of mortises. These support tenons on the ends of the side, front and back rails, as well as the arms. The plans show all critical dimensions for mortise size and location, but a few tips will help. The uppermost mortises on all four legs support the arms. Note that the mortises for the front legs must only be 1 1/4" deep, allowing room for shaping the top of the front legs.
Arms, Rails and Tenons
When you've cut mortises in the legs, it's time to cut matching tenons. As with any project that supports substantial weight, tight joinery is essential for strength. That's why you need to take your time to get a snug fit between mortises and tenons. I find it easiest to cut tenons like these on the tablesaw, using a mitre gauge with an extra-high fence to define the shoulders. The majority of the tenons are 1/2"-thick x 2"-tall x 1 1/2"-long, except for the tenons on the arms. These are only one inch tall. The tenons on the back of the arms are 1 1/2" long; those on the front are 1 1/4" long to fit the shallow mortises that allow for the front leg's curved shape.
The only other complication is the tenons on the top back rail. Left on their own, these will interfere with the arm tenons. That's why you need to notch them so the tenons interlock within the legs.
Dry-Fitting
With your mortise-and-tenon joints cut, bring the parts together for a test run without glue. Start by assembling the side rails and arms. I laid these out on a piece of carpet on my shop floor, then inserted the back rails and seat rails into the side section. Next, cap off the rails with the other preassembled side components. Carefully roll the bench onto its legs and draw the joints tight with clamps. Turn the bench onto its back again, then place the scrolled cutouts directly onto the top and mid-back rails, centred on their edges.
The plans show how the decorative side and back scroll pieces fit into small notches. These are 1/4" deep, located in the legs, top back rail and mid-back rail. Mark these now, then take everything apart, cut the notches, and get ready for final assembly.
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