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Build this boat-shaped bar
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Be the Captain Morgan of your domain with this clever boat-shaped bar
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By Rick Campbell, photos by Roger Yip, illustration by Len Churchill
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Add a couple of functional accessories to your bar: wine storage and a stemware rack
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Set aside the bow bulkhead and glue the rest on edge to the face of the back panel. You can hold these bulkheads in place with clamps, or tack them in position through the back panel with an air nailer or spiral finishing nails.
Take a look at the plans to see how the door stiles extend between the lower bulkheads to square up the opening for the doors. To make these parts, cut out a pair of rectangular blanks, then use the sides of the back panel as a pattern to lay out the curved edges. When you trace the profile, position the inside edge of the blanks 13 5/8" from the back panel's centre line. This location corresponds to the sides of the door opening. After transferring the profile to the blanks, head over to the bandsaw to complete the cuts. Sand the edges, then install the stiles flush with the front inside edges of the bulkheads using a couple of dowels to connect the ends into the bulkheads.
Next, turn your attention to the frame that supports the base of the bar. First, cut out rail blanks for the front and rear of this frame. Once again, you'll use the back panel as a pattern to transfer the profile to the ends of the rails before trimming them to length with a bandsaw. After sanding, glue the rear piece directly to the back panel and attach the front to the underside of the lower bulkhead with glue and #20 biscuits.
Cut out blanks for the base frame side rails as well. Prior to installation, you'll need to bevel the top and bottom edges of the side rails at the tablesaw to compensate for the slope of the side of the back panel. For my project, I needed 10º angles, but you should use an angle gauge to check yours. There could be variation in the profile of your back panel. Apply glue to the ends and the top edges of the frame sides, then clamp the parts in place.
Now that you've reinforced the stern, it's time to build the bow. Grab the short bulkhead you made earlier and prepare blanks for the triangular upper and lower bow plates. As before, use the back panel as a template to trace the side profile onto the blanks and cut out the shapes at the bandsaw. Attach the bottom edges of the plates perpendicular to the top and bottom of the short bulkhead with glue and biscuits.
Next, prepare the centre support ribs that stand vertically between the bow plates. Start by laminating a double thickness of 3/4" material to make the blank, then bevel the edges at the front to create a point that matches the tip of the bow plates. Apply glue to the top and rear edges of the joined ribs and clamp the assembly in place, with the back edge centred against the upper bulkhead. Finally, glue the entire bow assembly to the top of the back panel.
Side Step
You need to strengthen the structure of the hull by connecting the bulkheads to the side panels. Each side comprises three wide strips, secured with lap joints along their mating edges. Start by preparing 1/4"-thick material for the panels using one of the resawing techniques on page 66. Rip the strips to final width and mill the 1/8"-deep x 1/4"-wide rabbets along the edges to form lap joints. Make them at the router table with a straight bit or by using a dado blade in the tablesaw.
To make this installation easier, find an extra pair of hands to help, and conduct a dry-fit before you reach for the glue.
I recommend an air-powered finishing nailer as the easiest way to tack the strips to the sides of the hull while the glue dries. The curved shape makes it difficult to get a solid grip with bar clamps. Hammer-driven finishing nails installed close to the edge of the thin material may cause the wood to split.
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