|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Build an elegant patio set
|
 |
|
This table and chairs set is great on the deck, patio or balcony
|
|
|
By Adrian Jones, photos by Tracy Cox, illustration by Len Churchill
|
|
|
|
|
Tabletop Assembly
The tabletop is framed with four identical pieces, joined at the corners with mortise-and-tenons. Each piece has a tenon on one end and a mortise at the other, so the whole assembly has to be glued together at the same time. The mortise is inset to accommodate the curve cut into each outer frame side.
Mill all of the wood for the top, then prepare the frame using that dado blade again to create the tenons. Carefully dry-fit the frame, bringing all joints together at the same time.
Use your drawing bow again to lay out the curve on the outer edges of one of the frame pieces. Cut the curve with a bandsaw or jigsaw, then sand or plane the surfaces smooth. Transfer this curve to the other pieces and extend the curve to the mortised end of the adjoining parts. Cut the curves on all frame pieces, sand them smooth, then reassemble the frame. Join the parts with outdoor glue, then clamp them tight. Measure and equalize the diagonals to ensure the frame is square, then set it aside to dry.
When the glue has cured, sand the top frame smooth and rout a 1/4" roundover profile on the outer edges. Lightly relieve the inner edges with sandpaper.
The tabletop slats sit on three support rails: two opposite each other at the edges and one in the centre. These support rails are cut to fit inside the top frame, providing a lip to which the slats are glued and screwed. Measure the inside dimensions of the frame and then cut the three top slat rails 1 1/2" longer than this length. Use a dado blade to cut the 3/4"-long rabbets on all ends and 1/2" rabbets on the sides of the two side rails. Glue the side rails underneath the tabletop frame, but leave the middle one off for now.
Lay the middle support rail in the middle of the frame and mark its location there. Next, centre the middle support rail on a pair of legs and drill a pair of pilot holes through it and into each leg. Countersink the holes and secure the support to the legs with a dab of glue. Install a leg top brace in the same direction as the middle support rail, sitting on the top of the other two legs. Pre-drill, glue and screw in a similar manner. Give everything a final sanding and coat with the Danish oil.
Cut the top slats to length so they fit gap-free into the frame while resting on the side rails, then apply oil to the top and sides of the slats and frame. Glue the slats in place with proper spacing (I used stir sticks) and clamp them flat.
Give the top a final sanding and apply a couple of additional coats of oil. Fasten the top to the legs and drill pilot holes into either side of each leg brace and into the ends of the middle support rail. Countersink and screw each into place with a dab of glue under each slat. Sand the completed table and finish as you did with the chairs. Once the whole set is dry, you won't want to give up your seat anytime soon!
| YOU WILL NEED | | FOR EACH CHAIR | SIZE (T x D x L*) | QTY. | | Front legs | 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 39 1/2" | 2 | | Rear legs | 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 35" | 2 | | Face seat rails | 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 19 1/2" | 2 | | Side seat rails | 2 1/2" x 3/4" x 14 3/4" | 2 | | Face lower rails | 3/4" x 1 1/4" x 19 1/2" | 2 | | Side lower rails | 3/4" x 1 1/4" x 14 3/4" | 2 | | Back uprights | 1 1/4" x 3 3/8" x 13 5/8" | 2 | | Seat slats | 3/4" x 2 7/8" x 18 3/8" | 5 | | Back slats | 3/4" x 2 3/8" x 15 3/8" | 5 | | Screw cleats | 3/4" x 3/4" x 13 3/16" | 2 | | Armrests | 1 3/4" x 1 1/4" x 20 3/4" | 2 | | FOR THE TABLE | | Legs | 1 1/4" x 1 3/4" x 39 1/2" | 4 | | Leg rails | 3/4" x 1 1/4" x 18" | 4 | | Tabletop frames | 1 1/16" x 2" x 30" | 4 | | Side/mid slat support rails | 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 28 1/2" | 3 | | Top slats | 11/16' x 2" x 27" | 12 | | Top leg braces | 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 2" | 2 | | * Length indicates grain direction. All parts are white oak |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
