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Build an elegant patio set
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This table and chairs set is great on the deck, patio or balcony
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By Adrian Jones, photos by Tracy Cox, illustration by Len Churchill
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This chair was designed for life outdoors. All parts come together at a slight angle, so rain won't pool and weaken joints, particularly on curved parts such as the armrests.
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Do a Little Jig
The side seat rails have a decorative arch cut into their lower edge. To prepare this feature, you could draw the outline of the curves on each piece by hand, then use a saw to cut them before sanding, but there's a better way.
Start with a router table template made from a piece of scrap medium-density fibreboard (MDF) a couple of inches longer than the rail. Trace the required curve, as shown in the plans, with a drawing bow, then carefully saw and sand the MDF to the exact shape. Be careful: every bump and wave in the curved edge of the MDF will be transferred to your chair rails.
Rough-saw the curved shape onto the bottom edge of all white oak chair rails (no sanding is needed), keeping about 1/16" to 1/8" on the waste side of the line. Next, temporarily fasten one chair rail to the MDF template, with the oak overhanging the edge slightly. Install a flush-trimming bit into your table-mounted router, with the height of the bit adjusted so the bearing rides only on the edge of the MDF template. You can use double-sided tape, small finishing nails or a system of toggle clamps and stop blocks to hold the oak in place. The wood and MDF must stay solidly together while you push the assembly across the spinning flush-trimming bit.
The genius of the flush-trimming bit is that it cuts away everything that's beyond the diameter of the bearing. This means that all the excess oak you left when you roughed it out will neatly disappear, leaving the edge smooth, crisp and identical to the MDF pattern. Work slowly and take shallow passes as you rout against the grain of the curve to prevent splintering along the grain.
Once you've cut and trimmed the curves, use a 1/4" roundover bit to refine the edges of the legs, lower rails and the lower edges of the seat rails. Leave the seat rails' upper outside edges square.
Cleats and Seats
With the side seat rails complete, cut the two screw cleats that will fasten the seat slats to the frame. Cut them a little shorter than the distance between the tenons, then bore countersunk screw holes to attach each cleat to its rail and the rail to the seat slats.
Mill enough wood for five seat slats for each chair you're building, then cut them to fit snugly between the side seat rails. Make one pair of slats for each chair notched to fit around the front and rear legs. Use a 3/4" bullnose bit in the table-mounted router to profile the edges of all slats, then sand each piece smooth.
Attach the screw cleats to the side seat rails with glue and screws. Be sure to set the cleats below the top edge of the rails, the same thickness as the seat slats you'll add later.
Glue Up the Chairs
Start by gluing up each chair's side frame, one at a time, using outdoor glue. Make sure each frame is square (equalize diagonal measurements to within 1/16") and flat, then set them aside to dry. Continue by gluing one side of the four face rails, assemble the entire chair and set it on a flat surface. Clamp, make sure the whole assembly is flat and square, then allow the glue to set.
The back is made of a pair of back uprights, with back slats. The uprights are shaped to lean backward to provide lumbar support. While the uprights are cut from 1 1/4" thick material, the slats are from 3/4" stock, joined to the uprights with biscuits. You'll also join the uprights to the rear legs in the same manner.
Create a router template for making the chair back uprights using 1/4"-thick MDF or plywood. Carefully saw and smooth them as you did earlier with the side rail templates. Use the templates to make one pair of chair back uprights for each chair you're building.
Temporarily install the rear notched seat slat and clamp the uprights to the rear chair legs. Make matching marks on the legs and the uprights to locate a pair of #0 biscuits in each joint.
Measure the distance between the chair back uprights and cut five back slats to length. The plans show where the back slats should go. Cut matching #0 biscuit slots in the slats and uprights, then rout the edges of the slats with a 3/4" bullnose bit and sand them smooth. Assemble the back with glue, clamp and remove squeeze-out when the glue is half-cured. Reassemble the back into the chair and tweak all parts for fit.
When the chair parts fit and feel good, take everything apart, add glue and reassemble permanently. This operation also includes the second side frame on each chair, the one you left unglued so you could install the back. While you're at it, put in the seat slats with a dab of glue in the centre, then secure them with screws.
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