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Build a storage stair box
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This clever step-hugging box collects all that stuff for the next trip up or down the stairs
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By Konrad Sauer, photos by Dave Starrett, illustration by Len Churchill
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The pivoting handle is made of hardwood for strength and durability and moves out of the way for easy access to the box contents.
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With the pins cut, I lined them up against the previously scribed lines so I could mark the corresponding tails with a pen knife. This way any errors made in cutting the pins would be automatically compensated for in the tails. Just be sure to mark mating halves of each dovetail joint uniquely, so they can be reassembled properly with their mate. With the tails marked, it's back to the backsaw, coping saw and sharp chisel. After all the dovetails are cut, dry fit the top and bottom boxes, then stack them to check the fit. You may find a little hand planing necessary to get the boxes to align perfectly when stacked. When all fits well, take the dovetails apart and cut slots for the bottoms. I used a router and a 1/4"-dia. bit for this. Pretty standard, really, just cut stopped dados 1/4" up from the bottom edges of both boxes.
I like traditional design, and that extends to the bottoms used in this project. They're solid wood, with grooved edges that mate with grooves cut in your dovetailed masterpieces.
Cut the bottoms now, then try another dry-fit again of all the parts under clamping pressure. You'll find that this project stays together quite well without glue, though you should use a little anyway. After the glue has dried, trim off the excess pins and tails that stick beyond the box face, using a sharp chisel or low-angle block plane.
I used half-round trim and simple pine moulding on the top and bottom edges of the project, to add elegance. There's room for your own interpretation here, so add what you like.
The handle is positioned to be as practical as possible. You can hold the rung anywhere in your hand that's necessary to distribute the weight, then fold the handle down to make it easier to fill the box between trips up or down. I made the uprights out of hard maple for strength, each one swiveling on a single screw driven into the ends. A piece of 3/4" dowel forms the handle rung, pinned in place with a small brad.
The Finish
I decided to use a historically accurate milk paint for this project. The staircase exits into my kitchen, which has dark slate-coloured cabinets. That's why I chose Midnight Blue milk paint from Homestead House Paint Co. (877-886-5098), covered later with a coat of paste wax. Mix one part paint powder with two parts water in a mason jar, then shake like you're making a Martini. Let the bubbles go away (it takes about 45 minutes) and brush it on. Add another coat, then rub down with a blue 3M Scotch-Brite pad when it's dry.
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